From keksz@erols.com Fri Nov 12 08:11:09 PST 1999 Article: 86954 of rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata Path: mindspring!news.mindspring.net!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!not-for-mail From: keksz@erols.com (Bill Keksz) Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata Subject: KONI install tips Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 10:34:30 GMT Lines: 87 Message-ID: <382bed22.40949109@news.erols.com> X-Trace: KUwjNqDjKq5TePsDevkPUPurbxUDapt8VrniNFMpYj8= X-Complaints-To: abuse@rcn.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Nov 1999 10:34:59 GMT X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230 Xref: mindspring rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata:86954 I celebrated my 50th birthday by installing my bargain KONIs (as well as the Hellas & airhorns I got as presents). I used the "Norm Garret Method" - undoing the lower A-arm tongue rather than the Bill Cardell method (whacking the ball joint with a BAH). The steps are documented by Garret in his book "Mazda Miata Performance Handbook," but Jaime Villacorte's web page (http://www.wenet.net/~jaimev) is better. Jamie installed KYB AGX shocks, which are adjustable by a knob on the side of the shock (accessible from under the car), but are not adjustable for height. KONIs have two or three height choices, and adjust via a knob on the top, accessible from the under the hood & the trunk. FWIW, if you want a front shock tower bar, PBC's (& FLP's!) looks like it provides better access to the knob than some others. I highly recommend Jamie's page if you want to do the shocks yourself. Naturally, I've decide to add a few tips. Most are applicable to any shock installation; I've indicated those steps that are KONI-specific. Needed: Torque wrench Breaker bar 14mm deep socket - to clear the long threads on the nuts holding the upper plate to the body. 17mm deep socket - short could be used, but is easy to lose in the lower A-arm. 19mm deep socket - KONI uses a 12mm central shaft & 19mm nut rather than the stock 10 mm threaded shaft & 17mm nut. Spring compressors. An old broom handle, to use as a lever to hold down the upper A-arms. A second human body - in order of preference: 1 - Someone who's done this before; 2 - Your SO, who by this time is proven to be patient; 3 - A teenager. FRONT: Undo the end links on both sides. This allows moving the sway bar out of the way. I removed the old shocks differently than Jamie - I used the spring compressor on the car, & used the floor jack to do most of the compression. With the car on jack stands, I moved the jack to the A-Arm & jacked it up, then attached the spring compressor to the now-compressed spring. Loosen but do not remove the 17 mm and 14 mm nuts at the top. Remove the 17mm bolt at the bottom of the shock, and lower the jack. The bottom of the shock then pulls up out of the A-arm, allowing access to the 17mm bolt hidden under it. Use a deep socket for this one, as it's easy to get a short socket jammed inside the A-arm. Then remove the other 17mm bolt in the lower A-arm, and the 14mm nuts on top. Move the lower A-arm down, and have your assistant use the broom handle to move down the upper A-arm (far end under the longitudinal member, and middle pushing down on the brake caliper). Finesse the spring/shock assembly down from the fender, then up and put of the upper A-arm, while taking care not to dent the fender lip, or scratch the paint or your glasses (I was getting a new pair anyway). DO NOT LOSE the flimsy clear or white plastic washer between the upper spring mount and the fender - you'll need it to keep the assembly from squeaking. Installation is the reverse - attach the assembly at the top (loose 14 mm nuts), assemble the tongue back into the lower A-arm, guide the shock bottom into the lower A-arm, & torque all the nuts & bolts down. REAR: Again, undo the end links on both sides. I used the floor jack and spring compressors at the rear also, although it isnt as necessary here. Loosen but do not remove the 17 mm and 14 mm nuts at the top. Disassemble the tongue from the upper lateral link, remove the 17mm bolt from the bottom of the shock (captive nut on rear). Move down the lower A-arm, remove the 14mm nuts at the top, taking care not to lose them in the recesses around the mount. Again, DO NOT LOSE the flimsy clear or white plastic washer! With the KONIs, note that the lower spring mount is wider in diameter than the spring, which creates a clearance problem with the half shaft during installation, especially if, like me, you used the lowest perch. This means it is it much easier to fasten the top end first, with the 14mm nuts loose. The rest is pretty straightforward. I did not cut the bump stops on either end - I figured I'd rather hit them sooner & softer, rather than later (at higher lateral G's) and harder. Time will tell if I'm right. Don't forget to proerly tighten the 21mm nuts. Next step: get a good alignment.